How to Train Total Recall (Without Arnold Schwarzenegger)
Teaching Your Dog to Actually Come Back
Recall is something loads of people struggle with — and I was one of them back when I first got into all this. As owners who care about our dogs, we want to give them as much freedom as we can (and living in Bournemouth there’s a lot of cool places to give freedom). We picture them running free, living their best life — tail up, tongue out, loving every second.
The irony? That freedom often sets us up for failure.
Whether it’s a new rescue or a young pup, we give them too much too soon. They find value in everything — the smells, the sights, the sounds — and before long, we’re standing there holding a bit of kibble while our dog is halfway across the park chasing a pigeon. Once the environment becomes more rewarding than you, you’ve lost them.
The World Is One Big Playground
Let’s be honest — the world is more exciting than you are. It just is.
And if your dog’s never been taught that there’s value in choosing you, you’re going to find recall hard going. It’s not about your dog being “stubborn” or “dominant” — they’re just doing what works for them. Sniffing that hedge or chasing that bird pays off — coming back to you might not.
That’s where the real work starts.
Step One: Start at Home
If your dog doesn’t come to you when you call them in the house, then good luck trying to get them back in a field. You’ve got to build this from the ground up.
Start somewhere easy — like your front room. I always recommend using a house line at this stage. It’s a lightweight lead your dog wears around the house so you’re not left chasing them when they ignore you (and they will ignore you early on).
Keep the space distraction-free, keep your expectations realistic, and make it easy for the dog to succeed.
You call them over and when they come to you, reward them. If they ignore, you you can use the house line to reel them in. This shows them that coming to you isn’t an option, it’s mandatory.
Here’s a simple way to get started:
Say your dog’s name.
The second they look at you, say your recall cue (“Here!” or “Come!”) and take a step back.
If they move toward you, mark and reward.
If they hesitate or ignore you, gently guide them in using the house line, then reward them when they get to you.
Don’t overdo it. Just 5 or 6 good reps in a session is plenty. Keep it light, upbeat, and finish on a win.
What Needs to Be in Place First
Before you dive into recall, make sure a few basics are covered:
Your dog understands a marker word — like “yes” or a clicker. This tells the dog exactly when they’ve done something right. You say it the moment they commit to coming toward you — not when they reach you. (you can check out the blog post on that here).
They know how to respond to leash pressure — meaning they move with it instead of pulling against it. (This will help massively later on when you need to guide them.)
You’ve got something they actually care about — that could be their daily food, toys, affection, whatever floats your dog’s boat. If you’re not more interesting than the environment, you’re already on the back foot.
If none of that’s in place, this next bit won’t make much sense.
Flexi Leads: Controlled Freedom
I like using a Flexi lead when I start recall training outdoors. Not as a walking tool — just for training. It gives the dog the feeling of freedom while still giving you control.
Just a heads-up: a Flexi lead should not be used in busy places, near roads, or with dogs that haven’t learned how to move safely on one. It’s a tool — not a shortcut.
So, picture this: you're in a quiet field or open space, your dog’s sniffing about on the Flexi, and you call out:
“Fido, here!”
If they ignore you, you apply a bit of pressure on the line to guide them back. If they move with the pressure — mark and reward. Nice and clear.
If they’re really zoned out and you have to reel them all the way in, I’d still reward them for returning, but I wouldn’t mark — they didn’t choose to come back. Still, they’re learning that being near you = good things.
Then I release them again and repeat a minute or two later, ideally when they’re not mid-sniff or locked onto something exciting (that part comes later — don’t rush it).
Think of it like this:
Call the dog when they’re lightly distracted, not fully locked on.
If they respond — great, mark and reward.
If they don’t — guide with pressure, then reward when they reach you.
Let them go again, pause, repeat.
Over time, you’ll find yourself needing less pressure — until eventually, there’s none at all.
Long Line Time
Once your Flexi work is solid and recall’s bang-on every time, you can graduate to a long line — a fixed-length leash that can be dropped and just drags behind the dog.
You’re giving the dog even more freedom now, but you’ve still got that backup if they make a dodgy choice. Run the same recall drills as before, keep the vibe relaxed, and reward any good decision to come back.
The goal here is simple: recall without pressure. The line’s just there in case, not as a cue.
Proof It Everywhere
Before you even think about going off-lead, you need to proof your recall. That means testing it in as many different places as you can.
Different fields/ locations. Different weather. Different times of day. If your dog only comes back in the one park you always go to, the job’s not done yet.
The gold standard? 10 out of 10 recalls — every time, in every place.
“He Comes Back… Unless There’s a Distraction”
Sound familiar? You’re not alone.
Most people say their recall is “fine… until.” That’s usually a sign that it hasn’t been trained properly around distractions — and that’s normal. We all start somewhere.
That’s why we start in low-distraction environments: to build a reliable reflex. You’re also learning when and how to step in — when to use pressure, when to let the dog figure it out, when to mark.
Once that’s in place, you can start adding distractions slowly — from a distance, with good management. This is often where working with a decent trainer can help. Someone who can introduce triggers at the right distance, read the dog, and help you keep things moving forward without overwhelming them.
Final Thoughts
Look — training recall takes time. It’s not sexy, it’s not flashy, and it can feel painfully slow. Especially when you’ve got work, family, and life to juggle.
But getting it right changes everything.
A dog with a solid recall gets more freedom, more enrichment, and a safer life. And you get to breathe a bit easier knowing they’ll actually come back when it matters.
And if you’re stuck? Ask for help. Seriously. A second pair of eyes might be the thing that moves everything forward.