All The Gear
We’re going to dive into the gear I use and why. I’ve even emboldened items below with links to help you find things a little quicker.
Fair warning: it’s a long one — but treat it like a shopping list. Not only would a lot of this have helped me massively when I first got Sam, it also gives me a chance to talk about some of the tools I use day-to-day with mine and clients’ dogs.
This isn’t about buying loads of kit for the sake of it.
It’s about using the right stuff to make life easier, safer, and clearer for you and your dog.
Treat Pouch
These come in all shapes and sizes but I like silicone ones. Easy to clean, ideal if you’re using pate or raw, and you don’t end up with a soggy, smelly fabric pouch.
I rotate between a cheap Amazon one and a nicer one from The Raw Pocket. Both do the job. Loads of other brands exist — these are just the ones I actually use.
Training Belt / Vest
Super handy.
Storage for toys, treats, poo bags — everything.
On wet days, not having to shove a dripping tug into your jeans pocket is bliss. I also carry tick pickers and a spare leash in mine.
Worth checking out: Maliko for belts, and brands like My Dog Nutrition, Arrack Outdoors, and IQ Dog Sports for vests/jackets.
Standard Lead / Leash
I’m a biothane guy.
Nylon core, rubbery outer — sounds grim, but trust me, good biothane is brilliant. Waterproof, wipe-clean, doesn’t stink, and the smooth action makes teaching lead pressure much easier (here’s a link to my post on that).
I prefer the flat style over tubular — nicer to grip, less faff for clients, no need to wrap it round your hand like a rope, plus they come in loads of cool colours.
Long Line
Also biothane, for the same reasons.
If you’ve ever reeled in a soaking, mud-soaked fabric long line… yeah. Say no more.
I go for the longest, brightest one I can get. I move to a long line after I’ve proofed recall on a flexi (more on that below). I let it drag so the dog gets more freedom but I can still step on it if recall goes sideways.
Think of the long line as the final stepping stone before proper off-lead freedom.
Slip Leads / Slip Collars
I don’t use slip leads much in sessions, but they’re great to own.
They fold down tiny and live in my pocket as a spare — handy for emergencies or when you find a loose dog.
They’re also useful for teaching impulse control, like when you throw a ball and want your dog to hold a position instead of blasting after it, or if your dog hears the clip of the lead and thinks “time to launch myself into orbit.”
I like:
Slip leads around 5-6mm with a proper spring-loaded stopper
Slip collars around 4mm for clearer communication when teaching lead pressure
Slip collars are great because the dog can wear them off-lead. I loosen them when not in use and I never leave them on a dog unsupervised. Use common sense — thick undergrowth, branches, brambles… don’t risk it.
Flexi Lead
People either love these or hate them — I see them as a tool, and tools are only as good as the person using them.
I use a flexi before graduating to a long line.
I like the Flexi Giant/Pro (10m) in neon yellow/green so I can see it easily. Just make sure you get the right strength for your dog; some have too much retraction tension for smaller breeds. K9 Corner has a good selection.
Important bit:
Don’t be a dick with it.
No full-extension flexi in town centres, by roads, or near reactive dogs or dogs you don’t know. Use your head.
Some places don’t allow off-lead dogs — a flexi gives your dog some freedom while still keeping you legal and safe.
Pro tip:
Mark the halfway point and last metre/last half metre with bright tape (I use blue electrical tape). It helps massively when practising recall.
Harness
Personally… not into them.
Harnesses can make pulling easier, not harder. Yes, you can teach a dog to walk nicely on one — but if they can do that, they can walk nicely on a flat collar or slip, and those tools give clearer communication and less faff, especially in unexpected situations.
I will say though that a harness can be useful if you need to lift a dog out of a situation. Me and Sam got chased by cows once and I had to throw her over a fence before I dove after her.
If you’re dead set on one:
Do your research
Avoid “no pull” gimmicks
Don’t expect a harness to magically fix pulling
Pulling is a training issue, not a harness issue.
Crate
You’ll already know from my crate post (link coming) that I’m a big fan.
Sam has one in our bedroom, one in the family car, and I use DT Boxes (crash-tested) in the work van for proper safety.
If you can get a crash-tested crate, brilliant — totally worth the investment. TransK9 is another good brand.
If not, a standard crate in the car is still much better than a loose dog bouncing around.
Flat Collar
Simple but important.
Your dog wears this all the time, so get something decent.
I use a Carhartt collar for Sam — tough, stylish, lasts years.
Drying Coat / Mitts
Normal towels work… but drying mitts and a robe are just easier.
Especially in winter or after the beach — after all, I’m here on the Dorset coast / in Bournemouth.
A robe also keeps them drying without blasting water across the whole kitchen when they shake.
I use cheap ones from Pets at Home/Jollies, but Ruff & Tumble are the bougie option.
Coat
Not essential, but helpful.
A wet dog in a café is pain. Even hardened dog lovers don’t want wet dog spray all over their Croque Monsieur and coffee. A waterproof coat avoids that and makes post-walk life easier.
E-Collar
Right, the controversial one — but it shouldn’t be.
I’m not here to guilt-trip anyone.
I am here to tell you that if you want true off-lead reliability, an e-collar is worth your time to understand properly.
Think of it as a seatbelt:
You always put it on, you shouldn’t need it, but it’s there if you do.
It works by sending an adjustable electrical muscle stimulation — same tech as a TENS machine or those muscle stimulators you see on late-night shopping channels. It’s absolutely not a “shock.”
But — and this is important — an e-collar requires proper guidance. This isn’t something you buy off Amazon, chuck on your dog, and hope for the best.
With proper training:
recall becomes bulletproof
distractions stop being a gamble
your dog gets proper freedom without risk
you get peace of mind
Sam works on level 3 for low distraction, level 11 for big distractions. The collar goes up to 127. That should tell you everything about how subtle it is when used correctly.
For added context:
I start to feel the stimulation at level 8, my wife starts to feel it at level 12. Every person — just like every dog — has different sensitivities.
I only recommend:
Never leave it on a dog unsupervised and shift the collar position every few hours to avoid irritation.
And if you want to feel one?
You can test Sam’s collar on your arm in a session — I’d genuinely encourage it. Most people go: “Oh… is that it?”
Prong Collar
Another tool that gets judged on looks alone — and another tool that, when understood, is incredibly useful and surprisingly gentle.
A prong is inactive until pressure is applied.
No constant squeezing, no face straps like a Halti or figure-8. Just clear, even pressure.
Good ones (Herm Sprenger) have rounded, blunt ends — nothing sharp. And because of the physics of how they work, you need far less pressure than with a flat collar or slip.
They’re brilliant for:
dogs who’ve learned to tank through pressure
teaching movement with pressure, not against it
giving the dog clear information
But — same as the e-collar — they’re not something you slap on and yank. That’s abuse, not training. With proper technique, many dogs improve fast.
Needs:
correct size & fit
safety clip to the flat collar
supervision (don’t leave it on in the house)
guidance from someone who knows what they’re doing
And again — if you want to see how gentle it can be, I’m always happy to demo it with Sam.
Toys
I’ve got a whole post on toy selection already, so here’s the short version:
No tennis balls
No balls without a handle
Biothane handles are ideal
Durofoam balls float
Kong is great but thread a rope through it
Most swallowed balls happen during excited, sloppy play. A handle fixes that instantly.
Bowls (incl. collapsible)
I’m a bit extra on bowls.
I use YETI — because they’re solid, heavy, stay put, and last forever. GUNNER ones are amazing too but pricey over here.
Are fancy bowls necessary? No.
But I like gear that works.
What is essential is a collapsible bowl for walks, car rides, field trips, hot days. They cost peanuts and save your dog from having to drink out of your cupped hands like a psycho — plus it’s amazingly difficult to do, especially if you’re on your own.
Storage
Totally non-essential, but I love the YETI Loadout Box. Keeps all my training gear in one place and survives being launched around the van.
Bougie? Yes.
Useful? Also yes.
Raised Bed
Raised beds are great because you can take them anywhere and the dog instantly knows what “place” means.
I’m obviously not talking about hauling round a cabin bed or something outrageous (although if that’s your vibe, you do you). A raised bed is made up of a hollow metal rectangular frame with fabric stretched over it and (usually) detachable legs raising the bed off the ground.
I bring one to clients’ houses, parks, fields — anywhere Sam needs a boundary.
They’re perfect for:
settling
boundary training
distance sends
creating a stable spot when working other dogs
I usually chuck a home blanket on top to make it comfier.
That’s the list
If you’ve made it this far — well done.
Check out my post Top Of The Shops for links to the best dog gear. I’ve scattered links throughout this post too so you can find everything easily.
This isn’t an exhaustive list, but it’s a solid starting point with a few extras to think about. And remember — you don’t need everything. Build your kit slowly and choose what works for you and your dog.